2017 Riesling Brandstatt, Veyder Malberg

"Peter Veyder-Malberg remains a pioneer in the postmodern Wachau, although there are still not that many producers following his road toward terroir expression. Whereas the famous Vinea Wachau still serves its established wine quality categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd, Peter has never been interested in classifying his wines according to must weights or alcohol levels. "I prefer the Burgundian system and want to reflect the different terroirs in my wines and I can't see the point why a 12% alcohol wine from a coolish top vineyard should be less valuable than a 13 or 13.5% wine from a warmer top vineyard. I think in times of global warming physiological ripeness is not the point." The Wine Advocate, Jun 2016