2006 Saumur Champigny Le Bourg, Clos Rougeard

"Hidden in the center of Chacé behind a nondescript metal gate without even a name on the letterbox lies the estate of Clos Rougeard, which has reached almost mythical proportions for amateurs of cabernet franc. The estate has neither an internet site nor an email address, and often does not even answer the telephone, but is considered by its fans to be the Romanée-Conti of the Loire Valley. Although their father and grandfather had already set very high standards, it was Charlie (1949) and Nady (1952) Foucault who have built the Clos Rougard’s reputation since they inherited the property in 1969.

For many, their most famous wine is Le Bourg, which comes from a one-hectare plot of almost 75-year-old cabernet franc vines planted on a thin layer of clay directly behind the courtyard of the old estate. It is matured in new oak. From there, Les Poyeux is visible on the distant hillside. The three hectares of vines, a touch less than 50 years old, are planted on more sandy soils and matured in one-year-old barrels. Both wines possess enormous substance, a subtle textural quality and seductively silky tannins. These are showy wines but elegant works of art that demand the taster’s attention."  Joel Payne, Vinous.com