2011 Chinon Silenes, Charles Joguet

"Charles Joguet himself was the iconic producer in Chinon from the 1960s onwards until he retired about 25 years ago. He is in his 90s today, and I am happy to have met him in person three years ago at the Domaine de Pallus, where we had some amazing old wines. It is being said it's easier to purchase a Romanée-Conti today than a matured Charles Joguet, since whoever owns a bottle would drink it but never sell.

Lead by Kevin Fontaine today, the domaine has kept the legendary name and is still producing excellent wines. The organically certified 36 hectares of vineyards—predominantly old Cabernet Franc between the Loire and Vienne Rivers, with the oldest vines planted in 1930 and 1940—are widely spread and on many different soil types (gravelly, siliceous alluvial sands and limestone). Many plots are planted in late-ripening, north-facing sites to maintain the Loire-typical freshness and structure of Cabernet Franc. Since the early beginnings of the domaine, it has produced up to nine single-vineyard wines, which reflect the particular site as well as the vintage on different quality levels, with the finest coming from Sazilly.

All parcels are harvested and vinified separately, and the red grapes (there is a bit of Chenin Blanc too) are all destemmed and cold-macerated in either stainless steel cuves or oak vats and fermented for up to four weeks. The aging takes place in either stainless steel tanks or used barrels for up to 18 months.

I really like all wines from this producer, but three Chinons stand out: Les Varennes du Grand Clos (fermented at higher temperatures than most cuvées), Clos du Chêne Vert (one of the oldest lieux-dits of the AOP, which is situated in the small city of Chinon on the right bank of the Vienne River and named for a monumental green oak tree that hangs over the parcel) and the Clos de la Dioterie (situated next to the winery, with the domaine’s oldest vines in a northeastern sun exposure)."  Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate, Aug 2021